Welcome to the Ocklawaha

Today was cold, I mean really, really cold for December in Florida. I put on everything I owned as I headed to the Kenwood boat ramp near Interlachen Florida. Earlier, a note from my guide, “Ok. I'll meet you at 7am December 6th. Do you know where the ramp is? My number is xxx-xxx-xxxx. The phone may not work out there so be sure you know where you are going before you get out there.” Per Google, the location is 2 hrs from my house, leave at 5, up at 4. Ouch. Did I know where I was going? Not really, never been there in my life. Ok, add another 20 mins for getting lost, which has happened before.

One month earlier. I have always wanted to photograph the Ocklawaha River basin during a period known as the drawdown. Every 4 years, the state lowers the water in the reservoir impounding the river to “flush the toilet” - to remove the accumulating vegetation in the lake. The Rodman Dam, built in 1968, is a relic from the failed Cross Florida Barge Canal, and an environmental disaster crippling one of the most scenic rivers in Florida. When the water is lowered, the remains of a great cypress forest is revealed, hundreds of thousands of stumps rise from the ground like tombstones, forming an unearthly landscape of death. I wanted to photograph what I had imagined to be an apocalypse frozen in time and hidden from view.

I had known about the drawdown and the forest for many years, but you needed boat access to get to the viewing areas. I remembered driving around the Ocala National Forest which borders the river, but could never find a place that I could access a view. This was going to be the time.

I contacted my friend, artist and naturalist Jim Draper who referred me to Karen Chadwick, a local river guide and artist, and advocate for freeing the river for many years. “Karen knows the river and can take you where you need to go.” After an email exchange I was booked for a tour. Unfortunately I couldn’t specify the weather, but it all turned out to be perfect, as it usually does.

I arrived at the boat ramp at the appointed hour, and as Karen was backing her boat into the water. I offered some help, but it was obvious that Karen had things totally under control. She told me to hop on board. Karen didn’t say much, other than commenting about the cold weather. She said the wind chill was probably in the 20s as we proceeded up the canal portion of the river. The sky was dark purple and I could see the sun beginning to make an appearance on the horizon.

December Morning

December Morning

I explained that I was interested in the trees, or what was left of them. Karen referred to the “drowned forest” and pointed to the right. In the distance I could see the faint outlines of thousands of poles sticking out of the ground. I had to think for a moment about what I was seeing. The scene was unfolding as the sun was rising and the light filled the darkness covering the shoreline. I still had not taken a shot with my camera as I stood there mesmerized by the skeletons of trees. The boat slowed, as Karen prepared to turn, “we have been in a canal that parallels the river and now we will enter the original river basin. Have you been here before?” “No” I sheepishly responded. “Then welcome to the Ocklawaha” Karen announced as she swung the boat around and we started moving in the channel. I told her to stop. I recorded this image, hoping that it would somehow make it in the low light.

Welcome to the Ocklawaha

Welcome to the Ocklawaha

We continued and mist rising from the warm water made the scene more mysterious and compelling. Then the sun broke through and illuminated the trees with golden light. The birds and fish were everywhere, life among the lifeless. I asked Karen to stop again, then waved her on, and then we stopped, and soon she knew when I saw something to photograph. It was good teamwork. Karen pointed out so many details that could be observed from the ruins. Like an archaeologist in Rome, Karen identified different trees and different configurations, old growth remnants, living trees, and her favorites. Then I learned more about the history of the area, and of the canal, and the ongoing fight to decommission the dam. It turns out that the reservoir is internationally famous for bass fishing, but its long term success is debatable. Nonetheless, there are significant commercial interests in having the reservoir intact.

Cypress Graveyard

Cypress Graveyard

For miles we traveled upstream, each turn revealing more of the same. We passed several sites where freshwater springs were located. With the reservoir full, these springs do not flow, but come to life during the drawdown. As we continued, the landscape changed. Some areas had been cleared, some areas burned, some areas “crushed” by a giant mechanical crawler, and some just left to drown. The water level of the reservoir decreases as one moved north, so the stumps were shorter. Then you began to see more surviving trees, or should we say barely surviving. The water levels prevented any new seedlings to survive, and any trees that did somehow persist they did so under torturous conditions, the trunks grotesquely deformed and branches sickly.

Marker 71

Marker 71

Remarkably, even after 50 years of empoundment, the original river channel was clear. We continued for another few miles and then I knew it was time to turn back (yes I was physically and emotionally burned out). We arrived back at the boat ramp at 1. A life changing trip to be continued…

The project page can be viewed here.

The Vessel at Hudson Yards

They say that photographers are easily entertained but when you drop me off at a place like this it’s easy to say that I’m good for the whole day. Visually, this place is like a giant puzzle, and if it wasn’t for the negative wind chill I probably would have stayed the whole day. If you have some time to kill in NY, this is a must see. There’s plenty of high end shopping next door, food courts, and the High Line, so something for all your non-photo accomplices to be entertained while you fill your memory card with interesting stuff.

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Okefenokee Walking Trees?

Autumn foliage in the Okefenokee

Autumn foliage in the Okefenokee

I’ve always wanted to rent one of the small powerboats to explore the parts of the Suwanee River on the Fargo side of the park. Today was cloudy, cold, and windy, not ideal conditions but we gave it a try. There was no one out on the river but photography was difficult. My thoughts were to come back with my kayak and do a lot of paddling to get to the forested areas. I stayed out about 3 hours and managed to cover a lot of ground with that little boat, something that would have been impossible with the kayak.

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After my outing I drove out to the Suwanee Sill and the water levels were lower than I have ever seen. The roots on the cypress trees lining the sill were all exposed, and it gave the eerie feeling that the trees were going to walk away. There is always something interesting going on at this refuge and it continues to be one of my favorite places to photograph.

Low water levels along the Suwanee Sill
Walk away tree

Walk away tree

Cathedral of Palms Trail

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I researched some areas to find old growth sabal palm forests and this trail in the St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge came up often. There are two main access routes, one from the east the other from the west. The trail in notorious for bugs - ticks, chiggers, and mosquitoes, is often overgrown with flooded areas. I took the approach from the east (off Wakulla Beach Rd) and did the first part of the hike along part of the Florida Trail that is on an old rail bed, hoping to avoid the slough through the vegetation. It was hot and humid, but the trails were fairly clear and I managed to pick up only a few ticks.

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Approaching the dense palm area was exciting, and I continually asked myself, “is this it?” You have to take some time to figure out exactly how you want to shoot the site. This takes spending some time taking it all in. At some point everything appears to be the same chaotic mess. But then some patterns and lines begin to organize the scene and you settle into the rhythm of the forest. What an incredible place to experience. The thrill of discovering a place for the first time is priceless.

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Critical Mass 2019 Finalist

These are the kinds of emails we all love to receive…

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Believe me, the number of rejection emails far outnumber these (I do keep them!) so I make a case to celebrate when this happens. I still haven’t figured out exactly what jurors look for in a project, you do your best work and send it off. Critical Mass has a reputation of being a tough competition, with plenty of competent eyeballs viewing your work. Moving to the final round is an honor and I am proud to be among the 200 finalists.

10 images submitted

10 images submitted

Fractured Forests has been well received and I hope to continue moving the project forward to a state of completion.

Telfair Museum

Cypress on Suwanee Sill was just acquired by the Telfair Museums, Jepson Center in Savannah GA. This print was initially part of an exhibit Southern Icons curated by Donna Rosser and Rob McDonald first shown at Slow Exposures in 2017. I’ve never had work acquired by a museum and it was interesting filling out the official paperwork for the transfer. Honored to be part of a museum collection.

Here is the post about the Southern Icons show.

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Benefit for the North Florida Land Trust

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There are many worthy organizations doing good work in all critical areas. Without these groups of dedicated people, I know that we would all be truly lost. As I witness the ongoing consumption of forested lands for development in Florida it is easy to be discouraged. Is there anything we can do to slow the conversion of essential conservation lands to subdivisions and parking lots? The establishment of "land trusts" throughout the country has enabled landowners to set aside their property for conservation while affording a level of financial return and tax savings in the present and future. We have such an organization in Northeast Florida called the North Florida Land Trust (NFLT). They are doing the hard work of identifying key priority properties based on a variety of economic and environmental factors, and pro-actively approaching landowners to consider alternatives to selling their property to developers. NFLT relies on donations of money and property to fulfill its mission. It's a lot of hard work.

I've been working with NFLT for a few years, providing photographs for their marketing and awards. A challenge for the group is raising awareness and finding the property owners who would consider this route for their property. Outreach activities such as a benefit party, help to bring together diverse groups of people to share the NFLT story.  Plus, we might sell some art to cover expenses and sponsor the next event.

Southlight Gallery in Jacksonville is sponsoring this event. Southlight is a cooperative, and has helped many emerging and established artists plug into the local art scene. We decided to have a show to celebrate the diversity of the natural landscape in Florida, inspired by the work of NFLT. My contribution is a selection of work from my series "My Real Florida." Serveral other artists have contributed works. The event is the evening of Thursday, March 22, 2018 from 6-9 pm at the Wells Fargo Center on the mezzanine. The work will be exhibited until May.

Prints and other items may be purchased through Doug Eng Editions.

LensWork Seeing in Sixes 2017

Just received my copy of the LensWork "Seeing in Sixes 2017" book of six image projects. I am honored to have two projects included, "Autumn Stillness" and "Truth of Trees." Publisher, Brooks Jensen, states in his introduction: "So here are the 50 chosen projects. It is perfectly natural to wonder about our criteria for inclusion in this book. We looked for several things, not necessarily in this order: originality, consistency of style, engaging content that grabbed our attention, projects about life rather than about photography, images that complemented and supplemented one another instead of becoming repetitious, projects that engaged our imagination; projects that included compelling text that expands the viewing experience; projects that reflect a photographer's point of view rather than a camera's view; excellence of craft both photographic and with text; projects that create their own small world within the limitation of six images only...Most importantly these are visual expressions of life."

LensWork commands a special place in my photographic influences. I met Brooks Jensen at the Photolucida Portfolio Reviews in 2015 after being a LensWork reader for many years. Brooks is an avid photographer, publisher, and writer, and brings a valuable point of view to the world of fine art photography. 

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Cherry Blossoms at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden

Cherry Blossoms - Brooklyn Botanic Garden

Cherry Blossoms - Brooklyn Botanic Garden

Luck has it that the cherry blossoms were almost peak at the Botanic during my visit to see my daughter. I was fortunate to experience the blooms back in 2014 when the flowers peaked on May 9. The gardens in bloom are quite magical especially when you are alone walking around in the misty coolness of the early morning. There was a small group of Japanese people, taking their time and moving slowly through the main walkway. They were noisy.

Cherry Blossoms - Brooklyn Botanic Garden

Cherry Blossoms - Brooklyn Botanic Garden

I was hoping that the drizzle would slow and it did, as I put the umbrella back in the backpack and started my routine of working the scene. I remembered some of the compositions of 3 years ago and did not want to repeat them. When I am photographing I normally don’t have an end in mind. Usually it is based on time or light or some other condition that causes me to stop.

Cherry Blossoms - Brooklyn Botanic Garden

Cherry Blossoms - Brooklyn Botanic Garden

I wandered out of the main Cherry Esplanade area and into the Japanese garden, another very peaceful area in the morning. For some reason I wasn’t finding what I needed here, the man-made constructions were too obvious and I made my way to this huge walnut tree that exuded so much power and quiet strength. I could see that the noisy group had finished their time with the cherry trees so I headed back that way only to find that my eyes for seeing were done. I had been in focused observation for 90 minutes and that is close to my limit. Found a place to sit and wait for my granddaughter to arrive. I shifted into family picture mode and ended up having a wonderful morning.

Walnut tree - Brooklyn Botanic Garden

Walnut tree - Brooklyn Botanic Garden

Guana River WMA

Marsh at North Jones Creek

Marsh at North Jones Creek

Admittedly I haven’t spent much time at Guana and had never taken my bike onto the extensive trails to do any exploring. I made a reconnaissance trip to the north-west entrance to the park and did a small hike to take a look. Parking was very easy as the lot is designed to accommodate horse trailers. Walking on an equestrian path is not my preference for a wilderness trail. I returned with my bike and with my loaded backpack complete with tripod I headed into the park in search of wonderful things. My first stop managed to capture the last of the overcast light, and the sun burst through the clouds as I completed my shooting and I sighed with disappointment. No clouds in sight. I decided to keep moving on. The trails were flat but sandy in many areas and the weight of my gear was really starting to challenge me, plus the temperature was rising fast. I covered a trail that skirted Guana Lake but could not find a good place to access the water. The vegetation is very thick and full of bugs! After riding for about an hour I decided to head back and return when the light was better. Sometimes my dependence on the weather becomes a major hindrance on when I can shoot outside, but I have never been able to deal with the bright contrasty light of a sunny day.

Guana WMA, Ponte Vedra Beach, FL

Guana WMA, Ponte Vedra Beach, FL

Cloud Pool

Cloud Pool

Big Talbot Artist Residency

Big Talbot Island - View from the Milam House

Big Talbot Island - View from the Milam House

I'm enjoying a week at Big Talbot Island at the Milam House graciously provided by the North Florida Land Trust. This property is located on the only residential street on the island, a wayward attempt by the state to raise money by selling properties. Fortunately the idea was short lived before developers transformed this area into an Amelia Island resort. Driving up AIA and seeing the beachfront mansions one is reminded of the power of wealth to own property and do what they want with it. Certainly preserving unique and beautiful land for the public to access and enjoy is a privilege and something I support our government to pursue. There is less and less undeveloped land (especially desirable property near the water) and I can easily envision the crowded houses each with their own dock obliterating any natural view of what this land was like before everyone decided to take a piece for themselves.

Very rarely do I take time to be away from home and the studio to just be by myself. It's been an adjustment. After entertaining friends and family for a few days I finally faced the reality of dealing with myself and what I wanted to do. "Nothing" never seems to be an option for me, but perhaps should be considered seriously. I started complaining about the breezy bright sunny cloudless day and decided this was a message not to go out and shoot. There are plenty of overcast days that will offer themselves in the future. Right now it is sunny, so enjoy it. Being alone in a wonderful place is special. I will see what it produces, if anything. For now it doesn't matter.

Blackrock Beach - Big Talbot Island

Blackrock Beach - Big Talbot Island

Piezography - Not for the faint of heart

Piezography Pro inks

Piezography Pro inks

I've been spending the past few weeks converting my old Epson Stylus 9900 printer to an OEM inkset, Piezography Pro, made by Jon Cone in Vermont. When I purchased my new Surecolor P9000 a few months ago, I debated whether to give my old printer away, sell it, or convert it to a B&W only printer. My interest in the Piezography inks started many years ago when I learned about the story of Jon Cone and his pursuit of quality prints from inkjet printers. I believe that one should understand as thoroughly as possible one's own choices for medium. We are all interested in achieving the highest quality output for our work and this I believe is the current state of the art for inkjet black and white printing. If you are interested in more information about Piezography, download the Manual in the Community Edition. Piezography Pro is a new version of the inkset that contains 10 inks and a gloss optimizer. You can produce an infinite variety of tone variations for highlights, midtones, and shadows using the warm toned and cool toned inks (4 of each). My previous B&W workflow used the Epson Advanced B&W Mode, which bypasses the ink profile system and manages the printing through a series of user selectable values for color toning and brightness. When Epson provided a 3 B&W ink tones (Black, Light Black, Light Light Black) this was touted as a revolutionary advancement, and indeed it is capable of producing impressive B&W prints. But there was always that inkjet look to them, something that hinted as a compromise, but you could not put your finger on it.

With the Piezography Pro inkset, there are basically 5 tones (HD Black, Dark Gray, Medium Gray, Light Gray, Very Light Gray) in a Warm and Cool variation, making a total of 10 inks. Then there is a one pass Gloss optimizer that removes any gloss differentiation due to unprinted paper showing. Only after looking at several of my prints with any areas of "white" did I see how prevalent (and distracting) this is.

I decided to flush my printer first with PiezoFlush which required a second set of refillable cartridges ($560). I had a stubborn Green channel and hoped that the flush would clear it up, which it did. Then I installed the Piezography Pro inks ($840 for the 250ml set) in another set of cartridges (btw, a set of 11 empty carts is $325). During the flush and installation, I'm sure another $150 worth of ink went into the maintenance tank, which filled up ($40). Piezography requires Quadtone RIP (QTR) software to send your file to the printer. QTR is shareware with a $50 donation. Printing is not as convenient as going directly to your Epson via Lightroom. Another learning curve. Speaking of curves, to get the most out of calibrating your system, you can "linearize" your output using a spectrophotometer (I have an i1Profiler). Lots of work. Is it worth it?

My preliminary tests using a "Proof of Piezography" test file shows dramatic improvements in the printing of dark shadow areas when compared to Epson's ABW mode. Where ABW prints as all black, I get a visible 10-level gradation. Impressive. How this translates to an improvement in print quality I will need more experience. Almost time to buy more ink.

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Baptist Medical Center - Weaver Tower

 
Front installation view

Front installation view

On Tuesday we installed "Connected Stillness" in the Baptist Medical Center Weaver Tower, 1st floor lobby near the elevators. The 40 ft long installation depicts a typical morning at Cary State Forest, and combines photography and 3d elements. My hope is to offer a familiar, peaceful, and calming scene to those entering the hospital. It is a great privilege to offer this work to those who may need the power of art to move them to a higher place.

Installation view

Installation view

Gratitude goes out to my installation team Robert, Dorian, and Donald, my project co-collaborator Ryan Buckley of Gallery Framery, and my art representative Hillary Whitaker of Stellers Gallery at Ponte Vedra.

Cary Forest Study 632

Cary Forest Study 632

For the first time I was able to take one of my forest panoramas and incorporate it into an interpretive piece of art that reflects my intention for these large photographs. The forest extends horizontally and is momentarily interrupted by bits of the forest, natural branches that infill small alcoves between the canvases holding the larger print. These “bridges” connect the imagery together, and allow us to return back to the reality of the composition of the forest – wood, branches, and the interconnectedness of living things. The gaps must be jumped in order to progress visually through the 2-D composition.

The alcoves in the walls formed perfect pockets for the branches, allowing them to seamlessly fit in and provide the connection to the real world.

Branches

Branches

More branches

More branches

Those who have visited my studio over the past few years now know what I had in mind for those bundles of branches. I don't know why it took so long to develop this into a final idea. There was some experimentation on technique for the assembly and final finish. Overall I was pleased with the outcome and hope to extend the concepts with additional pieces.

From the plaque installed near the piece:

Artist: Douglas J. Eng
Title: “Connected Stillness”
Medium/Materials: Digital photography, archival pigment prints on canvas, natural branches
Location: Cary State Forest, Bryceville, FL
Date Photographed: April 22, 2016
Statement: The peace and stillness in a forest is present in all of us. Take a moment to look, breathe, and reflect on what surrounds you. Feel the stillness in the air and the warmth of the light ready to enfold you. Now go about your day with a renewed sense of being.